Yee Sang – From the Time the
World and Malaya Were Young
By A. Najib Ariffin - Nadge
“Do you know yee sang, the veggie dish with raw
fish?” I asked breathlessly as I went around China
in my research visit years ago. When the person I asked didn’t speak English, I
switch to Chinese, which makes it worse. Although I’m part Chinese, my Mandarin
is almost non-existent, as my street dialect is Cantonese and even then my
tones are tortured.
“So, do you know yee sang?” The best answer I
get is a puzzled, “You mean like sushi?”
Well, that trip established it: the dish of
raw fish and mixed chopped veggies and sauces that we Malaysians and
Singaporeans take for granted during Chinese New Year was NOT common in China. Not even
on the 7th day of CNY as it traditionally was served in Malaysia.
So where does the yee sang we know today come
from? No doubt a million people in at least two countries. Malaysia and Singapore, have been asking that. I
just had to satisfy our need for an answer. After all, my father is Malaysian while
my mother is Singaporean, and of Chinese descent to boot.
So I began asking… My Chinese grandmother in Singapore had dismissed it, as she is one of the
few northerners among Sino-descendants in Southeast Asia;
(“We northerners are nobles, different from southerners”). Okay but that in
fact said something; at least I knew yee sang was definitely NOT of northern
Chinese origin. So I headed south.
Southern China’s Guangdong province was the one place where a
few people knew of yee sang (and where I could speak the Cantonese dialect!).
Good, especially in Hong Kong with its more
worldly restaurants. But surprise, surprise; many of those who knew it said
it’s a modern import from Malaysia-Singapore! Back to square one.
Sure, maybe the modern version of yee sang as
we know it really IS from Southeast Asia.
But maybe there were roots, some earlier version of it hidden in a corner of China somewhere?
I made some last tries and trials in the name of food. Finally a Mr. Cheng said
that some communities of coastal southern China do have a raw fish type of
dish. Where exactly?
The southeastern Chinese cities of Chaozhou
and Shantou are located in the northeastern
part of the province of Guangdong (Canton in English). Yet the people in this
locality are NOT ethno-linguistically Cantonese. A localised pronunciation of
Chaozhou is in fact Teochew, and that’s where some clues start to appear on
where a raw fish dish originated.
Before that, let’s go further back in Chinese
history and mythology. It is said that the goddess Nuwa (or Nuwo) created man
from clay and mud on the 7th day in the first month of the year.
Thus on the 7th day of Chinese New
Year people would celebrate Renri or the People’s birthday with a dish of raw
meat called kuài (膾).
I suppose raw meat was symbolic of the early naked humankind. Eventually raw fish
became preferred, possibly because fish is an abundant creature of the waters
from where mythology equates with life, as well as practically for the coastal
Chinese such as in Chanzhou area and Guangdong
as a whole the region was rich in seafood. What better way for them to
celebrate than with their abundant raw fish symbolizing this birth of life.
Queries seem to show that the dish was more
popular in the Teochew people’s Chaoshan region that must have also been spread
to or shared with the coastal Cantonese in Guangdong
province as a whole, especially in the port city of Jiangmen further south.
Shantou
is the bigger sister port downriver from Chaozhou city; combined they make the
Chaoshan region. Shantou
city is also prominent in 19th century Chinese history. It was then
called Swatow, one of the ‘treaty ports’ that the colonial West used to exploit
China, and was ceded to British concession in 1858. That was an Age of Turmoil
in Chinese history. Meanwhile just a year earlier Kuala
Lumpur had been opened by Raja Abdullah; and with its rich tin
mines it began an immigration pull factor in which one of the results later
became… yee sang in Malaysia.
How?
Throughout the early mid-19th to
the early 20th centuries China
was facing its Age of Turmoil, especially in coastal China with the meddling of Western
powers, the Opium Wars, rebellions and conflicts. Certainly turmoil did not
escape Guangdong,
including Chanzhou prefecture and to the Teochew and Cantonese in that era.
And so, like many other southern Chinese
regional and dialect groups such as the Hokkiens, Hakkas and Hainanese, the
Teochews and Cantonese migrated in significant numbers to the relatively
peaceful and abundant lands of the Nanyang or the Southern Ocean, where Southeast Asia was located. One of the main ports of
transshipment and departure to the Nanyang was Guangdong
province’s port
of Jiangmen, which gives
another clue to Malaysia-Singapore’s yee sang origins.
The Teochews spread to Siam, the Malay Peninsula’s Penang and Johor
states and Singapore next
door as well as parts of Indonesia
such as in Pontianak
and Ketapang. Johor Bahru was even nicknamed “Little Swatow” because so many
Teochews congregated there.The other group with raw fish dish cultural
memories, the Cantonese, settled largely in the Malay Peninsula’s west coast
and a few in Singapore.
With that we begin to see a commonality and pattern of why yee sang came up in
Malaysia-Singapore and not, say, in Thailand
or Indonesia
as well.
The Chinese as a whole brought with them
their ancestral culture including beliefs, dialects, lifestyle and of course,
cuisine. In the earlier years their aim was to make money and bring it back to China;
culture was not a main concern. But as Chinese numbers increased and life in Southeast Asia was good; people began to stay permanently
and raise families; and so culture began to be more and more practiced.
By after World War II, some Teochew and
Cantonese families in Malaya (especially on the west coast down to some Johor
Teochews; Singapore geographically included) began reviving the ancestral
cultural memories of a raw fish dish that was eaten together at the meal table
over Chinese New Year, especially on the 7th day in honour of the
goddess Nuwa and the human birthday Renri. [For this part onward of my research
I thank the kind older Chinese residents in Subang Jaya where my parents live
for sharing their yee sang reminiscences.]
Let’s take a look at the yee sang name, which
helps give further clues as to how it came about. The dish was mainly raw fish.
Vegetables were somewhat limited then using only carrot and turnip mixed with
some oil, vinegar and a sweetener such as even sugar.
That was how the name yee sang or the
official version yú shēng
(鱼生)
meaning “fish
basic-life” or figuratively “raw fish” came into being in the first place. The word “fish” (鱼) is commonly associated with its homonym
"abundance" (余).
Thus yú shēng (鱼生)
is correlated as a homophone sound
for yu sheng (余升) meaning “abundance increasing".
By comparison it could not be, say, from the Hakka
because in their dialect it would be “ng sang” (ng for fish) and what’s more
“ng” is considered a bad omen. Definitely not an auspicious dish to start the
Chinese New Year! So we must go back to the Teochews and Cantonese.
To a certain extent the raw fish and raw
vegetables as ingredients were also dictated by practical considerations in the
early days. By the end of the first week of Chinese New Year, the huge amount
of food prepared before the celebrations would be only leftovers. Yet households
were too tired to cook more sophisticated dishes.
Meanwhile leftover fish and vegetables that
had been kept, needed to be consumed soon. The fish, while still fresh, would
have softened by then and would be tasty just raw. That’s what happened with
the Melanau fishermen’s umai dish, which is fish stripped up and eaten raw
cured just with lime juice after a few days still at sea.
Whatever vegetables that were available in
the kitchen would start to look less fresh too. So, in the same vein as the
Malay kerabu dishes, just cut and chop up all your vegetables in strips so it
would look fresh and fine, while any of the veggie parts turning bad can be cut
away and discarded.
There are also personal anecdotes of stalls
in Malaya selling yee sang-type raw fish mixes as side dishes meant to be
shared with “Teochew moi” (Teochew-style porridge), and that the stall-holders
had come via the Cantonese port of Jiangmen.
This mix of strips of raw fish and whatever
shredded vegetables plus really anything else you like from noodles to crackers
to sauces gave rise to another opportunity for auspiciousness. It’s something that
is quite uniquely Cantonese; “lo hei” (撈起
or 捞起 in Cantonese).
The “lo hei” activity mixes the words and homophone
meanings for mix, toss and rise or high as everyone around the table merrily
joins in. What a perfect combo of action and expression for a mix of “raising
prosperity, abundance and happiness” for everyone present as they’re mixing and
tossing the ingredients together.
Older people remember that this yee sang dish
and the accompanying “lo hei” custom began spreading through Cantonese and
Teochew households up and down Peninsular Malaya’s west coast for Chinese New
Year.
Ever enterprising, the Cantonese began
offering yee sang in restaurants for Chinese New Year menus from the 1950s. It
was not as common or as elaborate as it is now. But it was found in places
where there were concentrations of Cantonese, Teochews or any Chinese business
activities, including in Kuala Lumpur, Ipoh and southwards but
not so much north and none on the east coast.
Yee sang was available in food outlets only after
the Chinese New Year holidays, usually the 7th day, when restaurants
reopened and the dish became a starter at business meals for “patrons to raise
good luck for the forthcoming year”. In the 1950s branding was still not a huge
thing for restaurants and dishes, so no-one bothered to brand or even record
these for posterity. Besides, it was still very much a family and business
partners’ specialty dish kind of item.
But something happened in 1952 that began to
bring yee sang into the culinary awareness in Malaya. In that year, UMNO and
MCA formed the Alliance
to contest the Kuala Lumpur Municipal Council elections in February, which they
won. Note that it was just around the corner of the Chinese New Year season.
What better way for Alliance partners to celebrate over an
auspicious shared meal!
For Malays, yee sang was fine as it’s perfectly
halal, being fish and vegetables, while Malay and Melanau fishermen for example
were no strangers to lime-cured raw fish (dipped in sambal of course). And any
possible misgivings about it being a “Chinese” food never arose, as the Malays
simply saw it as a form of their own traditional kerabu salad dish that was
just mixed with any keropok or whatever you wanted, and tossed up together in
the spirit of muhibbah in the new year. Yee sang was thus also “kerabu tahun
baru”, if you please.
After all, the symbolisms of mixing and
raising the ingredients for prosperity and sharing the food for harmony are
happily universal. (A similar concept applied with the Malay “nasi talam” where
wedding guests share four to a large plate or tray called talam.)
From then on, yee sang became a popular Malayan
/ Malaysian staple each Chinese New Year with more ingredients added or variegated
according to the restaurant or chef, or even the matriarch at family gatherings
as well as politicians at coalition meal meetings.
Meanwhile Singapore
puts its earliest commercially available yee sang in 1964, while it was still part
of Malaysia,
with the collaboration of four restaurant cooks. That’s perfectly fine, true
and correct for Singapore.
For Malaysia, the Malaysians tossed yee
sang up earlier. LO HEI!!
[This article was researched for and first appeared in Friedchillies.com under Gastropology 101 on food history in 2010]
http://www.friedchillies.com/articles/category/gastropology-101
TV shoot for my interview on #CapitalTV 2015 Chinese New Year special show on the #YeeSang research I did for #Friedchillies.com — at China Treasures, Sime Darby Convention Centre, Kuala Lumpur